Rock the Kasbah

After spending one night in Chefchaouen we returned to Tangier to take an overnight train to Marrakech. It’s a 9+ hour trip so we opted for a “first class” sleeper. It only cost us $35 apiece and was the size of a closet consisting of two sets of bunk beds with a very narrow aisle between them. It was muggy and smelled like 4 people who hadn’t showered in days. The bathroom was shared by the whole car and stunk like an over-ripe port-a-potty at a state fair. The “toilet” was a hole and you could see the tracks below. The toilet paper ran out within 10 minutes. I used it once and then tried to hold it from then on. (Why are bathrooms in developing countries so terrible? Has anyone else noticed this?) And we were riding in style. The other cars were crammed with people in upright chairs. (If I sound pompous about the experience, it’s because I am. We all agreed we’re too old for this shit.) We each popped a dramamine and settled in for the long night ahead. Oddly enough, Madison said it was the best night’s sleep she got the whole time in Morocco. Continue reading “Rock the Kasbah”

A Whole New World

Morocco was a trip. We entered via ferry from a port city at the southern tip of Spain called Algeciras into Tangier. Our original plan was to take a 3-1/2 hour bus from Tangier to Chefchaouen but decided to splurge on a $70 “grand taxi” that would take about 2 hours.


We arrived in the afternoon and got settled at the Riad before hitting the streets in search of food. We found a cafe recommended by the host and devoured plates of couscous covered with caramelized onions and golden raisins. Mark ordered a lemon chicken tagine, the first of many we’d consume over the next week but we didn’t know that yet. Madison and I nibbled at a Moroccan salad until Mark raised the question of whether it had been washed in clean water or tap water, the latter of which could make us sick. So we stopped eating it and spent the next 6 hours wondering if every tummy gurgle was the first sign of impending gastro-trouble. Luckily, no one got sick. Continue reading “A Whole New World”